Tuesday

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[On the River Kwai (2002)]

139.326:
Travel Writing


Administration:



[On the Border (2002)]


Workshops:



[Destinations (2006)]

Monday

Lecture / Workshop 12


[Italo Calvino: Città invisibili (1972)]

Lecture 12:
When?


Anthology texts to read:


[Italo Calvino (1923-1985)]


I want to finish with a recap of what we've been doing and what you've been listening to over the course of the last three months, then a look forward to some of the ways I hope that your writing (and reading) may change as a result.

I want to begin by telling you two parables, or considering two case studies - whichever terminology you prefer.

The first is the story of Marco Polo, or Marco Milione ("Marco Millions") as he was known in his native Venice. In his youth Marco Polo accompanied his father and uncle on a long, perilous journey across land from Italy to China. That was in the year 1271, long before the Renaissance, long before the invention of printing, long before most of the technological innovations we consider specifically "Western" or "European".

When he came back 24 years later, it was with a mass of traveller's tales about the sheer extent and complexity of the Great Khan's empire (Kublai Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan). Nobody believed him, however. He earned his nickname because he was alleged to exaggerate every small number into "millions". While he'd been away, Venice had declared war on Genoa, and Marco was roped into the conflict. He was captured and imprisoned, and it was while he was in a prison cell in Genoa that he met and dictated his travel stories to a writer named Rustichello of Pisa.

Rustichello specialised in writing romances, full of chivalrous knights, beauteous damsels, mysterious castles, tournaments and intrigues. He accordingly wrote Marco's story in the only way he knew how: as a romance (you'll note his prologue includes details of the Polos being enlisted to convey two ladies to a far-off destination). As a result, it was regarded as more of a work of fiction than a genuine contribution to geographical knowledge, and it wasn't until centuries later that explorers such as Christopher Columbus started to take it seriously.

The text of his account is uncertain and unauthorised, the details often garbled, but there can be no serious doubt that Marco went where he said and did what he reported. It was Rustichello, though, his ghost-writer, who created his book, one of the most popular and bestselling works in history.

Many years later, another Italian writer, Italo Calvino, used Marco's story - particularly the account of his conversations with the Great Khan - to create a very strange work of fiction: Invisible Cities. You've had a chance to read some of it, and I guarantee that you found it a little difficult to follow in parts. What's it actually about?

The blurb on the back of my Picador edition quotes from a contemporary review of the book:

'Every time he returns from his travels, Marco Polo is invited by Kublai Khan to describe the cities he has visited. The conqueror and the explorer exchange visions: for Kublai Khan the world is constantly expanding; for Marco Polo, who has seen so much of it, it is an ever-diminishing place.

Although he makes Marco Polo summon up many cities for the Khan's imagination to feed on, Calvino is describing only one city in this book. Venice, that decaying heap of incomparable splendour, still stands as substantial evidence of man's ability to create something perfect out of chaos. Nevertheless, it's a place where rats thrive; where the dead can seem to outnumber the living'

Times Literary Supplement


Perhaps Kublai Khan is the type of the consumer of travel literature. He stays at home and retains his appetite for marvels. Marco Polo, like James Hamilton-Paterson ("The End of Travel") or the various purveyors of "Anti-travel" we talked about a fortnight ago, is more jaundiced. The more he sees, the more repetitive it all becomes.

Which of them is correct? Both - and neither. The wonders of the world are inexhaustible (literally), but that doesn't make them invulnerable. Modernity speeds up travel, but also makes it more and more necessary to assert the necessity to stand still once in a while.



[Joseph Conrad (1857-1924)]


My second parable is the story of Joseph Conrad (or Józef Teodor Konrad Korzeniowski, if you prefer). He grew up speaking Polish, in Poland, and yet he didn't - because there was no such country. Prussia, Russia and Austria had divided up Poland between them in the late eighteenth century, and it didn't achieve independence again until 1918, after the First World War.

Conrad's father Apollo was a writer and a patriot, and was accordingly arrested by the Tsarist authorities in 1861, when Joseph was four, and sent into exile in Siberia. Both his mother and father died as a result of the harsh conditions they were subjected to there, so Joseph was an orphan by the age of 11.

In an autobiographical essay Conrad records that he was fascinated by maps as a young boy, and particularly by the blank spot in the centre of Africa. "When I grow up I will go there," he said to himself - and, amazingly, many years later, after leaving Poland for France, and then for the British Merchant Marine, he did precisely that. He went there - to the heart of the King Leopold's private colony on the Congo river - and what he saw and brought back from that experience eventually became the story Heart of Darkness.

For me, the essential thing to remember when trying to understand this story is that Conrad was not British. His narrator and alter-ego Marlow is British - and is accordingly rather scornful of "foreigners", especially their attempts to run viable colonies. Conrad, though, as a loyal Pole, was scornful of Imperialism in all its forms - British, Russian and American - and his feelings about inhabiting a "blank spot" on the map can hardly be said to have been unambiguous either.

His is certainly an art of contrast and comparison. The fascinating thing is that it was by enlarging his terms of reference, by making his very real experience of the horror of the Belgian Congo into a fictionalised story, that he managed to create a work which has sparked so many analogues and echoes since - notably Francis Ford Coppola's 1979 Vietnam war film Apocalypse Now.

Travel, in other words, can be said to be what you make of it. But the destiny of the words you produce, either by dictation to an unreliable and opinionated ghost-writer (Marco Polo) or by deliberate creative recasting (Joseph Conrad), are finally unforeseeable.

Both of these stories, for me, underline the close - almost inextricable - relationship between the reality of the world we live in and the potency of the imaginative processes we use to describe and understand that world.

Conrad, as a child, imagined a journey to a blank spot on the map. That spot, when he finally reached it, bore little or no resemblance to the romantic, idealised "Africa" he'd been longing for. What it did suggest to him was a basic kinship between all the "dark places of the earth" - centres of genocide, colonial exploitation, poverty and greed. The "city of whited sepulchres", Brussels (and, by extension, London) turns out to the ultimate "heart of darkness" in his novella.

There's little evidence about what the actual Marco Polo expected to find in the vast regions he was traversing before he got there. He was, after all, following an already established trading route. The - apparently quite realistic - stories he told about his adventures in the East did end up inspiring the entire imaginative community of medieval Europe, though. And this influence eventually permeated as far as the novelist Italo Calvino in his meditations on time and space.

So what's my conclusion? I guess I want to turn it around onto you at this point. If telling the truth were a simple business, I'm sure we wouldn't need travel literature or any other kind of literature. There's no travel writing in heaven (or Utopia), that's for sure. Perhaps it all comes from our need to find a shape for our experience - a shape that somehow makes it meaningful, enables us to understand it, provides (in the final analysis) a catalyst for action?

In any case, it's a practical necessity for you right now to achieve some kind of balance between the ideal journeys of your imagination and the actual places you've experienced. Too much imagination, and you'll end up with pure fiction - too much reality, and you'll create nothing but a dull, banal itinerary. The art of travel writing lies in harmonising the two, imagining a journey, then experiencing it in reality, but never forgetting that the effect on your readers will depend on the intensity and skill with which you recreate it for them.




[Marco Polo: The Travels (c.1300)]

Workshop 12:
Sharing final projects


“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveller is unaware.”
– Martin Buber


Sharing draft writing for your final projects.

  • Final rundown on assignment submission details


Asst 3: Final Project due in on Friday, 25th October.


[Francis Ford Coppola: Apocalypse Now (1979)]

Sunday

Lecture / Workshop 11


[Mark Goff: Woodstock (August 15, 1969)]

Lecture 11:
Why?
Anti-Travel


Anthology texts to read:

Let's start with a brief history of Western civilisation. It's a bit of a tall order, of course, but I guess somebody's got to do it, if only to be shot down in flames immediately afterwards.

We begin with a fairly straightforward contrast between the City and the Countryside: urban and rural values -- the civilised and the wild. This basic paradigm for understanding the world around us lasted through classical antiquity right up into the modern era.

The eighteenth-century poet Alexander Pope could therefore state with confidence:

The proper study of mankind is man
- An Essay on Man (1733)


while his near-contemporary Dr Samuel Johnson famously remarked:

"When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford."
- Boswell's Life of Johnson (1791)


It's not that these writers were unaware of nature, or even indifferent to its charms - it's just that they saw civilised life as some kind of an achievement, and therefore intrinsically praiseworthy and desirable. Like ancient Romans, they loved novelty, but assumed that novelties should be brought back to the metropolis to be exhibited.

Fast-forward slightly. Here's a quote from William Wordsworth:

One impulse from a vernal wood
May teach you more of man,
Of moral evil and of good,
Than all the sages can.
- "The Tables Turned" (1798)


Wordsworth's poem was written only a few years after Boswell's book, but it represents nothing less than a revolution in values and assumptions: that great watershed in Western culture we generally refer to as the Romantic Movement.

In essence, Wordsworth is saying that the town / country divide needs to be rethought in terms of the country: that there's an inherent nobility and beauty in natural processes which is intrinsically superior to the values of the city.

We can quibble about just how and when this transformation took place. Clearly Wordsworth was harking back to Rousseau's idea of the Noble Savage ("Your book made me want to go about on all fours" as Voltaire remarked to the author of The Social Contract (1762)). Rousseau, in his turn, was summarising arguments advanced by Montaigne in "On the Cannibals" (1580). Nevertheless, these ideas first became dominant in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century, and this instinctive preference for natural values over urban, sophisticated ones has stayed with us to this day.

It certainly dominates travel writing, which is a genre which really took off in the nineteenth century, as it gradually achieved emancipation from largely educational accounts of that aristocratic European rite of passage known as the "Grand Tour." Instead, a new taste for the exotic, the strange, the wild and uncultivated overtoook readers and thinkers alike. Rugged explorers supplanted courtly sophisticates as the new heroes of the genre.

And so it went on, well into the twentieth century: the best traveller was the one who can encounter a strange tribe which has "never seen a white man"; the best writer was the one who had suffered most, knew the greatest number of obscure dialects, was prepared to go over the edge into the illimitable Outdoors:

As another great Romantic poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, put it:

from my early reading of Faery Tales, & Genii &c &c -- my mind had been habituated to the Vast --
- Letter to Thomas Poole (16 Oct 1797)


The 1960s were perhaps the highwater mark of this Romantic addiction to the purity and simplicity of nature over the deviousness and treachery of city-life. What is a hippie but an enthusiast for the (imagined) love and peace of the wilderness?

The (alleged) failure of hippiedom to achieve anything much beyond a lot of psychedelic music and a big rock festival at Woodstock (the most enduring images of which are probably the heap of rubbish left behind when the tribes departed) is one of the predominant themes of the post-modern era. Woodstock, after all, was followed the debacle of the Rolling Stones' free concert at Altamont Speedway ...

So where do we go now? Back to Pope and Johnson and a kind of conservative classicism? Or back to Coleridge and Thoreau and their evangelical enthusiasm for the Vast? Where is this "Vast" to be located, anyway? In Space? (Another unfortunate casualty of the sixties ...)


Little of Hunter Thompson's work makes sense without some appreciation of this dilemma, however localised his angle on it may be (Las Vegas and San Francisco are, for him, virtually the two opposing poles of the human spirit). He takes final refuge in the Rocky Mountains, the reclusive sage of Woody Creek, with the folk-singer John Denver as his nearest neighbour.

Iain Sinclair, by contrast, takes his cues from the Science Fiction "New Wave" of the 1960s - a reaction to the 40s and 50s "fiction for young engineers" Sci-fi of the Campbell era. The fiction of British writer J. G. Ballard is one of the few reliable guides he can find to these explorations of so-called "inner space."

Scott Hamilton prefers to explore that wasteland of the spirit known as Marxism - not so much the Master's own writings, as the various misinterpretations and misapplications of them which have resulted in our contemporary mediascape of "left" and "right"-wing values (another legacy of the Romantic era). For Scott, then, travel writing is a way of recuperating vanished histories, unearthing submerged proletarian traditions.

In other words, he too is a dyed-in-the-wool Romantic. Marxism is a Utopian creed, after all, and the problem with Utopias is that they're so difficult to find.

You can, however, do the next best thing, and try with all your might to go nowhere instead. Utopia, is, after all, Greek for "nowhere", but it can also be read as "Eu-topia", the good place.

Every account of a Utopia - and New Zealand's English-language literature effectively began with one: Samuel Butler's Erewhon, in 1872 - seems accordingly to inspire an equal and opposite reaction: a Dystopia, or bad place ... Perhaps you can only imagine the good place by drawing a portrait of a bad one (so much easier to find), and then simply reverse it! Imagine Heaven by describing Hell, in other words.

When Scott Hamilton came here to give a guest lecture in May 2008, he said:

For me, anti-travel writing is about rejecting falsified images of New Zealand, and falsified images of other parts of the world. It’s about digging into the present to find the past which can help explain that present. It’s about ripping brands off the landscape.

... In the piece which Jack put in your coursebook, and in a lot of other things I write, I’m arguing for the right of New Zealand to be ugly, or at least complicated, rather than the theme park paradise which the Tolkien films and the tourist industry seem to want to create. I’m fascinated by the Huntly district, and by the Waikato area in general, because of the very particular, very legible marks that history has made on the landscape there. Instead of airbrushing the landscape, and removing the history written on it, I want to read the messages in the coal shaft openings and canals and terraces and gravel quarries.

Underneath the streets of Huntly, and underneath the Waikato River that divides the town, lie a tangle of half-collapsed tunnels built a century ago by coal miners armed with shovels and dynamite. Every time I walk down the main street of Huntly I tread lightly, because I know I’m treading on hollow ground. Like the drained swamps and ghostly forests of the Hauraki Plains, these half-forgotten passageways are metaphors for a history which has often been repressed.

If you visit the coal mining museum in Huntly you may learn the names of the members of the miners’ wives lawn bowls team in 1951, or see a photo of the manager of Ralph’s Mine in 1911, but you will not be informed about the explosion that killed nearly fifty men at Ralph’s in 1914. You will not be told about the great strike of 1913, when drunken farmers on horseback, named Massey’s Cossacks, after the right-wing Prime Minister of the day, fought pitched battles with miners. You will not learn about the strange ‘riot’ of 1932, when the whole town of Huntly formed an orderly queue in front of the General Store, a group of housewives smashed the store’s windows with their handbags, and family after family calmly helped itself to the food its members could not afford to buy.

The fact that some of the uglier – or, perhaps we should say, more complicated – aspects of Huntly history have been kept out of the local museum may have something to do with the fact that a big mining company is funding the upgrade and relocation of that museum. But if you drive through the broken-backed countryside to the west of Huntly, on the wrong side of the river, then you’ll find the signs, the more or less cryptic messages left by history, like decaying mine entrances, blackened and condemned by explosions and fires, or derelict miners’ cottages the size of sheds, huddled in the shadow of the fine houses of the managers, or heaps of slack coal bleeding blackly into streams blocked by dynamited bridges. The past is a landscape waiting to be read.

I'm not sure that Scott understands the term "anti-travel" in precisely the same way I do, but we certainly agree on the desirability of a type of writing which is anti-cliché, dismissive of lazy conventions within the genre - knee-jerk responses, casually contemptuous guying of the "foreign."

Funnily enough, we were both under the impression that it was a well-known term for an established genre when Scott first wrote his piece. However, there may be some justification for the view that it isn't - or rather wasn't. It's rather exciting to be in at the birth of a new genre. Let's hope that the results live up to the opening fanfare.

At the very least, it's one more possibility in your smorgasbord of possible voices to try out.




[Iain Sinclair: London Orbital (2002)]

Workshop 11:

Sharing plans for final projects


“How long can the exotic remain exotic?”
Granta 26: Travel (1989): 258.


Discussion of Anti-travel texts:

  • The politics of travel to a deliberately non-exotic destination: in this case, Huntly
  • Is this an approach that lends itself particularly to video or photographic representation?

Sharing plans and ideas for your final projects.

Saturday

Lecture / Workshop 10


[Lonely Planet New Zealand (2006)]

Lecture 10:
Why?
The Marketplace


Anthology texts to read:



[Eric Newby (1919-2006)]







[Digital Nomad Travel Magazine]

Workshop 10:
Selling Your Wares


“If an ass goes travelling, he'll not come home a horse.”
– Thomas Fuller


Choice of publication outlet / audience predetermines certain details of what you can and can’t include in your piece.

  • Stretch the boundaries, or live happily within them?


[Gabriel White: Journey to the West (2003)]

Friday

Lecture / Workshop 9


[Joe Sacco: Safe Area Goražde (2000)]

Lecture 9:
What?
Places & Events


Anthology texts to read:

Eric Schlosser is an investigative journalist; James Fenton is a well-known English poet; Joe Sacco is a cartoonist. On the face of it, they would appear to have little in common. If we look a bit more closely, though, I think we can see that they share a certain objectivity and distance from the events they report. The question is, have they deliberately chosen this approach, or have the diverse genres they inhabit somehow chosen it for them?


[The Fall of Saigon (April 30, 1975)]



Saigon was an addicted city, and we were the drug: the corruption of children, the mutilation of young men, the prostitution of women, the humiliation of the old, the division of the family, the division of the country ― it had all been done in our name. . . . The French city . . . had represented the opium stage of the addiction. With the Americans had begun the heroin phase.
James Fenton, All the Wrong Places (1985)





Make no mistake, everywhere you go, not just in Marvel Comics, there's parallel universes...Here? On the surface streets: traffic, couples in love, falafel-to-go, tourists in jogging suits licking stamps for postcards ... And over the wall behind closed doors: other things-people strapped to chairs, sleep deprivation, the smell of piss ... other things happening for "reasons of national security"
Joe Sacco, Palestine (2003)





The United States now has more prison inmates than full-time farmers.

[There is] a simple explanation for why eating a hamburger can now make you seriously ill: There is shit in the meat.

Did somebody say McUnion? [...] Not if they want to keep their McJob.
Eric Schlosser, Fast Food Nation (2003)



[Eric Schlosser (2006)]







[Richard Linklater: Fast Food Nation (2006)]

Workshop 9:
Anatomy of an event


“Travel books are expressions of the effectiveness of print in putting the world on show and delineating a geography of power.”
– Lydia Wevers, Country of Writing (2002): 2.


‘Portraying an event’ exercise

These three highly politicised texts give private adventures against a background of international turmoil.

  • How effectively do they communicate the drama / detail of events?
  • What similar issues might your own writing address?
  • How can you characterise a “landscape”?
  • What constitutes an “event”? Revolution, earthquake, war, depression, economic miracle …

Thursday

Lecture / Workshop 8


[Paul Theroux (b.1941)]

Lecture 8:
What?
People


Anthology texts to read:






[Anton Chekhov (1860-1904)]

Workshop 8:
Anatomy of a neighbour


“Many contemporary travel narratives follow in this profitable vein, exhibiting picayune ‘mentors’ whose wisdom is dispensed like so much snake oil ...”
– Holland & Huggan, Tourists with Typewriters (1998): 13.


‘Creating a character’ exercise


  • Creating a character – examples from Theroux (himself / his interlocutors).
  • What are the components: physical description / speech / context?
  • What are the possible roles? Sidekick / opponent / friend / love interest, etc.
  • Chekhov & van Bohemen: portrait of the artist as a reluctant traveller?

Locations:
  • supermarket
  • beach
  • nightclub
  • pub / bar
  • village
  • hotel lobby
  • city street
  • country road
  • airport transit lounge

Actions:
  • talking
  • drinking
  • complaining
  • fighting
  • flirting
  • strolling
  • sunbathing
  • shopping
  • waiting



[Girl on Safari (2006)]

Wednesday

Lecture / Workshop 7


[Martin Edmond: Luca Antara (2006)]

Lecture 7:
How?
Hybrid Genres


Anthology texts to read:

The Japanese form haibun - prose with interspersed passages of verse - brought to perfection by Matsuo Bashō in the diaries of his various journeys perhaps offers us the best introduction to the idea of hybrid form in travel writing.

Travel writing is a hybrid form, of course - straddling traditional genre-divisions such as verse and prose, or fiction and non-fiction, with contemptuous ease. But that statement really doesn't even begin to do justice to the strange things happening in books such as Auden & MacNeice's Letters from Iceland, with its strange mixture of verse and prose, travelogue and autobiography - or, for that matter, Colin Hogg's illustrated diary of a Sam Hunt poetry tour in the mid-eighties.

The idea of an author who can only compose in fragments is perhaps a peculiarly modern view of the artist. Whatever one thinks of this cult of the sketchy and fragmentary, there's no doubt that travel writing lends itself peculiarly well to this way of thinking. Travel is, by its very nature, scrappy and disorganised, and it therefore makes sense that making a complex, many-layered mosaic of one's narrative could be seen to be making a virtue of necessity.

How else to explain Martin Edmond's Luca Antara, for example? Did the historical portion come first, before the rest? Was there ever really a "Henry Klang"? Perhaps these are the wrong questions to ask. We have to understand what Martin's book is and is not before we can even begin to speculate on its relationship to a conventional (non-fictional) travelogue.





[Kenneth Hari: W. H. Auden]

Workshop 7:
Who might you be?


“Criticism has never quite known what to call books like these.”
– Paul Fussell, Abroad (1980): 202.


Exercise:
Mixing it up

Increasingly travel books address the issue of many-layered places and personalities by complexities of genre. Auden's and Hogg’s texts parallel poetry, images and prose; Martin Edmond’s calls the authenticity of his narrative into question again and again.

  • You'll be divided into groups of three.
  • Each of you will be given an extract from a well-known (but unidentified) travel book.
  • I want you to go through it, underlining any facts or phrases that particularly stand out (to you).
  • Now, make a poem out of these stand-out words and phrases, with any necessary editorial modifications (names, dates, places) you need to make it read as a unified composition. You may also wish to add some new writing of your own.
  • Swap your poems with the other people in your group. I'd like you to make a joint text out of all three of them.

Afterwards, we'll share as many as possible of the poems you've written.


[Jan Kemp: Sam Hunt (1979)]